To: macgifts@mac.archive.umich.edu From: earlydh@c-17igp.wpafb.af.mil (Dwight Early) Subject: How to Open Up a Duo Ralph Wolfson asked me to pass this enclosed document onto the sumex and umich archives. It describes the procedure for opening up a Duo for installation of such goodies as your heart desires. It is a text file. --Dwight Early The following is a slightly revised procedure for opening up a Duo than the one I uploaded to the nets the week the Duos were introduced. These reflect the official procedures as documented by Apple in the service procedures. If you'd like more detailed instructions with illustrations, you can find them in the PowerBook Companion, 2nd Edition, which also details the procedures for upgrading all the other PowerBooks. It's a good book, if I do say so myself. <g> Oh yeah. All the standard disclaimers apply. Proceed at your own risk and children should never attempt this unless properly supervised. Rich Wolfson Wolfson@Apollo.Montclair.edu CIS 72467,617 AOL WolfsonR ==================== OK. So you want to get inside your Duo to look around. Possibly you want to install more memory, a larger drive or an express modem. Let me issue a few words of caution (I will get to the procedure-don't worry). First. I assume no responsibility for anyone crazy enough to go inside to just to take a look. For the others that use these procedures it should be noted that you too, are on your own. Secondly, although installing a memory module in a Duo is very easy (much easier than its PowerBook cousins) installing a modem or drive is not so easy. You'll need a T8 Torx driver (I know some say a T9 works-But wouldn't you want to get the right tool and a T8 is it) and a small flat bladed jewelers screwdriver to do the job. A static wrist strap, grounding pad and IC extractor (some of the connectors lift straight up) are also *highly* recommended. It should also be noted that some parts are considered by Apple to be disposable, meaning it's so easy to damage them that repair techs are encouraged to have new parts handy *whenever* they open a Duo. Also, these procedures have be tested by lots of folks other than myself but if anything is unclear, please let me know. With that said. Here's the procedure for getting deep inside your Duo 210 or 230. 1. Remove the main battery 2. Latch the cover and remove the four T8 screws from the bottom. Note that the offset one that holds the trackball may be longer (some are, most aren't). When these get replaced it is IMPORTANT not to over tighten them as you can warp the keyboard and restrict key movement. You only need to remove three (not the offset one) to install memory. 3. Turn the Duo over and open the display. Carefully tilt the computer and lift out the keyboard. There are two flat ribbon cables attached to the lower left of the keyboard and they are delicate. Be careful. If you are just installing memory, flip the keyboard over and place it on the palmrest. If you are going for the modem or drive, you'll need to remove both cables. This is done by releasing both sides of the connectors and lifting out the cable. If you've never seen type of connector before, this I suggest you get some help from someone who has. It's the same type of connector as in the other PowerBooks. A picture of how to release the cable is in The PowerBook Companion. Set the keyboard aside. Be careful. 4. Remove the two outside clutch covers (hinge covers) by pushing them with the jewelers screwdriver to the outside. They will slide off. It takes lots of force and although these are easily damaged and considered by Apple to be disposable most times they come off intact. If you break or damage them you will be able to get your Duo back together, but it will look bad and your dealer will know exactly what you've done when you go in to try to get another set. (P/N 076-0063) 5. Official procedure now has you removing the center clutch cover. Many folks find this unnecessary but it is the approved method. Close the Duo and locate the cover directly over the 152 pin connector on the back. There is a ribbon cable under it (on the left side looking at it from the back) so it is important to be extra careful (have I scared you yet?) as you use the screwdriver to pry up the right and left side and then gently pull the cover to the right (as you're looking at the back of the unit) to remove it. You can't pull it straight up as the ribbon cable snakes under the left side. A quicktime movie would be nice here. 6. Fold the display all the way back and get a support ready (1/2 inch book does nicely) to hold the display to prevent stress on the cables when you release it. Remove the two T8 screws (one on each side under the now removed clutch covers) holding the display mounting clips and remove the clips. Carefully lift the display legs out of the holes in the case stiffener and move it slightly back being especially careful to be sure the display is supported. The cable is delicate and difficult to obtain and replace. 7. The top case is secured by a snap at the lower left corner of the case (as you would be looking at it in use) and four interlocking tabs along the right bottom palmrest edge. If you don't release the four case tabs, you could break the top case. Raise the bottom left corner of the top case and release the case snap by pressing slightly inward. Slide the top case to you, off the four locking tabs to remove it. If you don't force anything you should have no problem here. 8. Now you can see everything. The drive and trackball are accessible and it's easy to see how they come out. To install the modem you'll have to take the entire machine apart, including the logic board and metal stiffener, to get to the connector in the top right of the case. First choice would be to have an Apple tech do it, if the price is reasonable or you feel the least bit hesitant. But if you're determined to do the job yourself. Read on. 9. Separate the display from the bottom assembly by first disconnecting the cable that connects them. It lifts straight up and I find an IC extractor helpful. Be careful as it still is attached because it runs through a ferrite bead that's on the stiffener case. Pry up the bead (its attached with double sided tape) with a jewelers screwdriver, and slide the display, on its support, out of the way. 10. Take out the hard drive, backup battery, trackball assembly and the microphone. Note the routing of the cables for the display and backup battery so you can correctly replace them later. 11. Remove the two self-threading and one machine screw that secure the case stiffener to the bottom of the case. Note which screws go where. Lift the stiffener straight up to remove it. 12. One screw holds the logic board in place. Remove it, and then raise the front end of the logic board and slide it out of the case. The modem slot is now accessible except it has a board (called the on/off board) plugged into it. Take the board out and place it in a safe place in case you ever want to remove the modem. Connect the modem firmly in its slot. Remove the RJ-11 knockout (save it too) and get ready to reassemble. Close up in the reverse order. A piece of double-sided tape will reattach the ferrite bead if the old one no longer sticks. It's my recommendation that you test everything before you replace the clutch (hinge) covers. Be especially careful with the middle one. It takes lots of pressure to snap it back and the ribbon cable is right there. The lower trackball button will not function until the case is secured, so if you test it before you replace the bottom screws, don't be surprised. Above all, be careful and do not over tighten the bottom screws as I find over-tightened screws are the cause of most Duo keyboard problems. This procedure gets easier the more you do it but it is still not especially friendly. Good luck, it may be that you'll need it. Rich Wolfson .edu From: earlydh@c-17igp.wpafb.a